basket.timer.attention

basket.timer.time.is.running.out

Kit list part 2: Mont Blanc equipment


KIT LIST PART 2: MONT BLANC EQUIPMENT 

At 4,810m (15,781ft), Mont Blanc is the highest peak in Western Europe, sat between Haut-Savoie, France, and Aosta in Italy. Despite involving no technical climbing, it’s an undertaking that should not be approached lightly: it requires decent fitness levels, acclimatisation and glacier travel skills (including crevasse rescue techniques). Here, Rory McCrea from Snow+Rock Covent Garden lists the essential clothing (Part One) and equipment (Part Two) needed to summit the White Mountain. 


Equipment

Preferably an alpine style, which are generally lightweight, minimalist and fairly durable. Anything from 30-45L should be enough.

It’s a good idea getting something fairly bright with a beam/floodlight option. 

 

Tip: Carry spare batteries – lithium batteries last longer in the cold!

HYDRATION

Water bladders are good for lower down, although the tube may freeze higher up. Ideally, take a 2L bladder and 2x 1L bottles. Nalgene bottles are the best option as they’re not metal and have a wide mouth. Insulation pouches are also recommended – they help prevent water freezing and allow you to clip the bottle to your hip belt for easy access. 

Tip:

  • Nalgene bottles can be filled with hot water before going to sleep with a sock slipped over them to make a hot water bottle.
  • Electrolyte mixes lower the freezing point of water and replenish the vital salts lost through sweating – electrolyte tablets/packets work well. Chlorine dioxide tablets are ideal for water purification. These should be used even if you boil the water (water boils at a lower temperature higher up and viruses can survive for an undetermined period of time in glaciers).

There’s no running water at the Gouter hut (pictured above) – you either pay through the nose for bottled water or take a small stove, gas canister and pot to melt snow.

 Not essential, but they will make a massive difference. In the short-term they help with balance and load bearing; in the long-term they minimise the impact on knee cartilage.

Factor 30+ sun cream and lip balm are essential. After sun cream is also a good idea. 

Tip: It’s important to reapply cream a couple times a day on the areas where it might be wiped off (nose, mouth and brow). Apply cream to the inside of the nostrils and try to limit the time spent wearing shorts on glaciers.

Get something lightweight with the essentials: antiseptic cream and wipes, regular and blister plasters, wound closure strips, painkillers, dressings and elasticated cohesive bandage. 

Tip: You can always add extra items to your kit!

SLEEPING BAG LINER

Huts have blankets which are used by a large number of people through the season without being washed. A silk sleeping bag liner helps make things a little more comfortable and adds some warmth.

A couple of waterproof stuff sacks keep your kit organised and dry (and help protect against dust) – utilise one for your insulating jacket, spare socks and underwear, and one smaller one.

EAR PLUGS + SLEEPING MASK

With all the snoring and clanking of climbing equipment that may interrupt your sleep, these are essential. A sleeping mask is also advised. In the Gouter hut there is an infrared sensor which switches the lights on every time somebody comes in or leaves the room.

BASIC REPAIRS KIT

Cable ties, safety pins and electrical/gaffer tape (or Mcnett Tenacious tape).

Safety Equipment

If you have no intention of getting into more technical climbing, then a simple alpine type harness is the best price option. If you do intend to learn climbing, then the best fitting climbing harness will be fine.

For the Gouter route, a 30-40m rope will be fine. Some folks like a lightweight option, others prefer a thicker rope. You can use a 50m rope, but this adds weight. 

 

Tip: Make sure you learn how to coil the rope around your body properly!

HELMET

This is essential. The approach to the Gouter hut is prone to stone fall, as is the crossing of the Grand Couloir. The best helmet is the one that fits you the best – you’re less likely not to wear it!

I would suggest as light as you can afford with a slight curve in the shaft. There is no hard and fast rule about length; shorter is lighter, while longer can be used as a walking aid. Some axes come with a wrist leash, however these can be annoying – a great alternative is a single spring leash which attaches the axe to your harness.

CREVASSE RESCUE KIT

This is essential. Make sure that you know how to execute a crevasse rescue! If you are being guided or doing an alpine course, check to see what they will provide and what you need to bring. There are different crevasse rescue systems and it’s possible to substitute different items.

 

The suggestions below are based on what we think is the easiest method: [1]Petzl Micro Traxion [2] Petzl Swing Cheek Pulley [3] Petzl Tibloc Ascender [4]2x screw gate carabiners [5] 2x 19cm ice screws [6] 120cm sling [7] 3m of 5-6mm cord to make prussic loops.

 

NOTE: This kit list has been written with non-technical ascents in mind (like the Gouter route) and for those who will be either using a guide or at least the huts.

Camping Equipment

This is the extra kit needed if you don’t use a guide or the huts. If you don’t have some alpine experience or aren’t familiar with glacier travel and crevasse rescue, this is not a wise option!

TENT

A ‘mountaineering’ tent would be an ideal choice. Some may choose to use a 3-season tent but be aware – you’ll be camping above 3,000m and the weather can be ferocious with very strong winds, even in the summer! 

 

Tip: In some areas you’re not allowed to camp and your tent and equipment could be confiscated (click here for more information

SLEEPING BAG + MAT

It all depends on how susceptible to the cold you are, how comfy you want to be and how much you want to spend – there’s no such thing as a cheap, lightweight and warm sleeping bag!

 

Tip: The temperature rating on sleeping bags is no more than a guideline: 0°C for the hardcore fast and light climber, -4-5°C for those looking for a more comfortable compromise and -10°C for those who feel warmth is more important than weight. A sleeping bag liner or bivi bag will add a touch of warmth!

We sell freeze dried meals which have about 500-700 calories per pouch, plus bars, gels and energy and recovery drinks. 

 

Tip: Add a little couscous to boost the energy value!


Related Articles